Dehydrated oily skin: how to recognise and treat it

Shiny skin, visible pores and a tendency to produce sebum during the day? Yes, you have oily skin, but your skin may also feel tight, flaky or uncomfortable at the same time. In this case, you have dehydrated oily skin.

Although it may seem like a contradiction, this is a very common situation in pharmacies and often raises many questions about which products to use. At Farmaciasdirect, we’ll explain how you can tell if you have oily, dehydrated skin and how to look after it properly.

Can oily skin be dehydrated?

Yes, oily skin can be dehydrated. Sebum production and hydration levels are two distinct aspects of the skin.

Oily skin is a skin condition characterised by increased activity of the sebaceous glands; consequently, sebum (oil) production is higher. This leads to a shiny appearance, disruption of the skin barrier and, in many cases, blocked pores, which in turn trigger blemishes or spots.

Even though there is an excess of sebum, the skin may still lack water, and that is when our oily skin becomes dehydrated oily skin. If we do not treat this dehydration, oily skin will begin to produce even more sebum to compensate for the lack of moisture, thereby disrupting the skin’s balance.

Differences between oily skin and dehydrated skin

It is common to confuse these two concepts, so we must pay particular attention to the terms ‘sebum/oily’ and ‘moisture’:

Oily skin

Oily skin is characterised by:

• Excess shine
• Enlarged pores
• A tendency towards blemishes and blackheads
• High sebum production

Dehydrated skin

Dehydrated skin is characterised by:

• A feeling of tightness
• Lack of comfort
• Dull appearance
• More pronounced expression lines
• Occasionalflaking

Thus, skin can be oily and dehydrated at the same time, combining symptoms of both conditions.

Symptoms: oily skin, enlarged pores and a tight feeling at the same time

Dehydrated oily skin usually presents with a combination of very characteristic symptoms and signs:

• Visible shine in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin)
• A feeling of tightness after cleansing or throughout the day
• Enlarged pores. There is therefore a direct link between dehydrated oily skin and open pores
• Flaking
• Uneven skin texture
• Occasional sensitivity or redness
• Make-up that cracks or becomes patchy

Why it happens: causes of dehydration in oily skin

In oily skin, there are various factors that can disrupt the skin’s barrier function and lead to water loss, i.e. dehydration:

• Cleansers containing harsh active ingredients
• Overuse of formulations containing drying ingredients
• Frequent use of exfoliants or acids
• Exposure to the sun without adequate protection, i.e. without sunscreen
• Insufficient fluid intake
• Stress and lack of rest
• Temperature changes and environments with air conditioning or heating
• Climatic factors such as extreme cold or heat, wind, etc.

• Not using moisturising products as part of your skincare routine

The real problem is that we tend to think it’s completely unrelated, but oily skin does need hydration— —and this can make the problem worse in the medium term. The good news is that, with the right routine and the correct active ingredients, it is possible to restore the skin’s hydration without increasing the oily feel.

Treatment for dehydrated oily skin

The key to moisturising oily skin lies in choosing:

• Lightweight formulas
• Non-comedogenic
• Oil-free
• Active ingredients that attract and retain moisture

Ingredients that work (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide)

The active ingredients that deliver the best results for this skin type are:

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is an active ingredient that acts like a sponge: it attracts and retains water, hydrating the skin and filling in spaces, thereby also providing a wrinkle-filling effect.

It attracts and retains water at different levels depending on its molecular weight, improves elasticity and comfort, and provides hydration without leaving a greasy feeling.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a very useful active ingredient for oily skin as it helps regulate sebum production, whilst also hydrating the skin and stabilising the skin barrier. Furthermore, depending on its concentration, it can have an anti-inflammatory effect, which is very important for oily skin that also suffers from blemishes or acne; and, as it also evens out skin tone, it is highly effective at treating and preventing dark spots.

Ingredients to avoid

There are ingredients that are very effective for oily skin, but which should be used in moderation, with caution, following the correct guidelines and combined with the appropriate active ingredients:

• Cleansers high in sulphates
• Cosmetics with a high concentration of denatured alcohol
• Excessive or overly frequentexfoliation
• Very astringent treatments
• Excessive use of acids or retinol and its derivatives

If we focus solely on removing sebum, the skin responds by producing even more of it, increasing the feeling of discomfort.

The best moisturisers for dehydrated oily skin

The best moisturisers for dehydrated oily skin are those with a light texture that are quickly absorbed. To find them, look for:

• Oil-free technology
• Gel or fluidtextures
• Moisturising ingredients such as hyaluronic acid
• Sebum-regulating active ingredients such as niacinamide
• Labelled as non-comedogenic

Complete skincare routine for dehydrated oily skin

A well-thought-out routine with the right active ingredients will help stabilise the skin barrier:

Step 1. Intensive hydration with Vichy Minéral 89 Hydrating Booster

Apply Vichy Minéral 89 Hydrating Booster to cleansed skin. Its formula, containing hyaluronic acid and mineralising volcanic water, helps to strengthen the skin barrier and provides long-lasting hydration, ideal for oily and dehydrated skin.

Step 2. Shine control and daily moisturising with Eucerin DermoPure Oil Control Mattifying Fluid

Next, use Eucerin DermoPure Oil Control Mattifying Fluid. Its lightweight texture helps reduce excess shine, provides hydration and improves the appearance of blemishes without clogging pores.

Step 3. Daily sun protection with Heliocare 360 Water Gel SPF50+

Finish your routine with Heliocare 360 Water Gel SPF50+, a lightweight, water-based sun cream that protects against different types of solar radiation, offers high protection and features a patented antioxidant that helps repair the skin from sun damage from within. It helps prevent deterioration of the skin barrier. Its lightweight finish is particularly suited to combination and oily skin types.

Our pharmacist’s advice

If your skin is oily, shiny and has visible pores, but you also experience tightness and occasional flaking, avoid using products that are too drying.

In most cases, the problem isn’t an excess of moisture but rather a lack of water. Choosing lightweight formulas with moisturising and protective active ingredients will help restore your skin’s balance and gradually improve its appearance.