They are derivatives of vitamin A, act on both the dermis and epidermis, are considered the most potent anti-ageing active and are one of the most widely used ingredients in a skincare routine. Yes, we are referring to retinol and the different retinoids. Today, in this guide to retinoids, we tell you what their benefits are and which products we can find them in. Keep reading!Theretinol is an ingredient that belongs to the retinoid group and is a derivative of vitamin A. Within this category we findretinoic acid, which is the one normally used for peels, retinaldehyde or retinyl. Why are there different types? Do they all work in the same way? We explain it below.
Types of retinoids
As we mentioned, theretinoids are made up of different types of vitamin A derivatives, among which retinol stands out. But... what do we take into account when making this distinction? Yes, thenumber of conversions until the ingredient becomes retinoic acid,which is the form naturally present in our skin. This makes its effectiveness on our dermis and epidermis greater, due to its absorption. To put it simply,there are different types of retinoids, each with a different composition.The closer the type of retinoid is to retinoic acid, the greater its effectiveness, but also the greater the likelihood of irritating the skin. So now that you know thatretinoic acid is the most potent active,you are probably wondering why use another type of retinoid, right? Retinoic acid can only be bought from a physical pharmacy and with a prescription, as it is not suitable for all skin types or every need. In addition, you should know thatthese vitamin A derivatives, although very effective, also have contraindicationsand it is very important, before applying them, to know how to do it, how often, at which step in the routine...
Retinol Esters or Retinyl Esters
In the product INCI or ingredient list you may find: retinyl acetate, retinyl linolate, retinyl propionate or retinyl palmitate, the latter being the most common. It is a very gentle active, compared with the rest of the retinoid category, and the perfect optionif you want to get started in the world of retinol or your skin is very sensitive or reactive.That said, the results will take longer to show, asup to 3 conversions are needed for it to become retinoic acid, according to the conversion process we explained at the beginning of the post.
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Retinol
It is the best-known and most widely used vitamin A derivative in skincare. It is more potent than retinol esters, as it only needs 2 conversions to reach retinoic acid. It is also another option as astarting point in skin retinisation. That said, it is advisable to apply it on alternate days, at different concentrations, always in the evening routine and combined with hydration.
Trans-retinoic Acid or Retinoic Acid
Without a doubt, it is the most potent ingredient when it comes to types of retinoids, although it is also the most irritating. As we mentioned at the beginning of the post, it is subject to prescription because of its high potency. When we talk aboutDercutane, the name probably rings a bell, right? It is a type of retinoid that, together withAccutane and Roaccutane, is used mainly to treat severe acne, although it also works against wrinkles and ageing. Apart from thesevitamin A derivatives, there are others such as Adapalene, Tazarotene or HydroxyPinacolone. However, although we can find them in some formulations and experts consider them much better than the other types of retinoids mentioned because of their high tolerance, there are still not enough studies to confirm this. Now that you have thisguide to retinoidsthat exist and which one is best to start with in the world of retinol... what are you waiting for to retinise your skin? Tell us about your experience and if you have any questions, you already know that you can write to our pharmaceutical team for advice on your skincare routine.
